This was a wonderfully relaxed day—the shortest I’ve had on this trip, aside from my first stage, and the first time I’ve managed to arrive before the gite has opened. While I wish the clouds would have burned off a little sooner, so that I could better enjoy the views of Cahors, that’s my only grievance about another day that was perfectly mild and pleasant, weather-wise. I’ve finished the GR-65 between Figeac and Cahors now, and find myself in the odd position of traveling northward, as I begin my jaunt on the Rocamadour variant. Today’s reflections bundle together in three main strands:
The Best View of Cahors:
Prior to this year, I had always arrived in Cahors the same way, following the Lot River into town and then crossing the bridge to the eastside. Works great; no complaints. I could never really understand why people coming in from Rocamadour or the Célé do all those extra kms. Given that I arrived in Cahors this morning by way of the GR-65, I didn’t have a choice. I made the gentle ascent this morning to a bluff overlooking the city from the southside and then descended to the river crossing. While the overcast, early morning skies didn’t cast it in the best light, I was impressed by what could be seen from this vantage point.
After a quick loop of the center (I’ll be back), I headed right back across that bridge, in order to gain access to the GR 36/46, climbing steadily up to Mount Saint-Cyr. THIS, I’m pleased to note, is the place to visit for the best view of Cahors. (Acknowledging here that none of these offer a perspective on the Pont Valentré that can compare in any way with the route the GR-65 follows when leaving Cahors.) You don’t even need to climb all the way to the very top of Cyr; I’d argue that the view from there isn’t quite on par with what you get a few minutes earlier, before that final ascent. What a perfect spot from which to appreciate Cahors—the Lot slipping around the town like a slithering serpent, the green channel of Boulevard Gambetta, tidily separating the old town on the right from its newer twin on the left, and the multi-domed cathedral standing regally. This approach adds an hour to your stage and a lot of extra exposed ascent, but if it’s a sunny day you will feel very well rewarded by that view.
Alternative approach to Vers:
Eventually, that route deposited me back on the Lot, which I followed eastward, going against the tide of the morning’s pilgrims. Just after the Arcambal dock, the GR turns southward, veering inland away from the river. This time, though, I was having none of that. I continued straight ahead on a footpath that continued to parallel the river. At points, it shifted into a dirt road and then back to a footpath, but it was shady and cool and peaceful all the while.
And then the fun started. I’ve taken the defunct train bridge across to Saint-Géry before, but here was a second opportunity to cross the Lot on my own private bridge. A compact but easily navigable footpath took me parallel to the tracks and then onto the bridge. While it’s been many years since it carried freight, it remains (in this thoroughly unprofessional assessment) entirely safe to walk across and a real pleasure. Cliffs loomed high above the Lot to my right, daring me to stick my camera out over the river again and again.
Once on the other side, the narrow footpath carried me forward to the minor highway, where I turned right. After a short stint on that busier road, I was able to turn right and join quieter tracks that ultimately delivered me into Vers.
And my goodness, what a pleasure Vers is! It features a gorgeous riverside park, with a small river of its own feeding into the Lot, cascading down a couple of mini-falls along the way. The grassy park is filled with locals and currently has a café pushing out burgers and salads to content locals. Cliffs flank both sides of town, ensuring dramatic views wherever you turn. What a beauty! When I’ve walked into Cahors in the past, I haven’t detoured to Vers, but knowing about the riverside alternative, I might have to come here more often.
Best Pastry Rankings:
Finally, following the application of a rigorous, scientific method, I’m pleased to share the current pastry rankings of this walk.
1) Tresse au chocolat in Limogne-en-Quercy
2) Tarte Myrtille in Aubrac
3) Tarte de Noix in Conques
4) Beignet de Pomme in Espalion
5) Chausson de Pomme in Saint-Come-d’Olt
6) Croissant in Les Faux
7) Chocolatines anywhere
8) Chouquettes
BTW, wifi has been pretty rough, so that’s why I’m suddenly dumping a ton of posts! Apologies if I’ve missed questions along the way. I’m trying to keep up with everything, but I’m now at four straight nights without wifi in the gite… which, I keep telling myself, is probably a feature, not a bug!
