Any summer of pilgrimage is a great summer, but I felt all the more fortunate to be in France this year. After so many months effectively locked down in the US, the reopening of Europe in early June was as well timed as it was deeply appreciated. Beyond that, I know that many pilgrims, in Australia and elsewhere, remained geographically isolated as a consequence of the pandemic.
And while it’s always a treat to be walking in France, it was particularly critical for me to return this year, with a new guidebook on the Via Podiensis in the works. The hope had been to do some walking last summer, but that was scrapped with pretty much everything else. As a consequence, I needed to cover everything this summer: the full GR65 from Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the many small-scale route variants, the Célé Valley and Rocamadour routes between Figeac and Cahors, and the two routes linking Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Hendaye/Irún on the coast.
Mission accomplished! With fresh notes, updated GPX tracks, new pictures, and plenty of great memories to sort through, I’m now finalizing the manuscript and labeling maps. There’s plenty to do, but we’re on track to have this released, if all goes smoothly, by early next summer.
While that plays out, I’m pleased to have write-ups of each day’s walk already posted from the road, ready right now for you to read if you missed them the first time. For convenience’s sake, here’s a complete list of the posts:
Prelude: A Whole Day in Le Puy-en-Velay
Le Puy-en-Velay to (Near) Figeac
- Le Puy to Rochegude: To the Tower of Rochegude
- Rochegude to Les Faux: Some Sauvage Weather
- Les Faux to Nasbinals: Back in the Aubrac
- Nasbinals to Saint-Côme-d’Olt: A Detour to Bonneval
- Saint-Côme to Le Soulie: The Highlight Reel
- Le Soulie to… Saint-Côme-d’Olt: Going Full Circle
- Saint-Côme to Conques: And Then Back to Conques Again
- Conques to Le Terly: Bursting with Hospitality in Decazeville
Figeac to Cahors (GR65, GR651, GR6/46, and some GR36, too!)
- Le Terly to Cajarc: Walking the GR65 from Figeac to Cahors
- Cajarc to Le Pech: Through the Causse de Limogne
- Le Pech to Vers: South to Cahors, Then Back North Again!
- Vers to Montfaucon: On the GR46 to Montfaucon
- Montfaucon to Gramat: Morning in Rocamadour
- Gramat to Béduer: Closing the Loop to Figeac
- Béduer to Cabrerets: It Will Never Stop Raining
- Cabrerets to Cahors: Picking a Path from Bouziés to Cahors
- Bouziés to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie to Bach to Lalbenque: They Can’t All Be Above-Average Days
Cahors to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
- Lalbenque to Escayrac: The Lalbenque Variant
- Escayrac to Moissac: Seeing Old Friends from Montcuq to Moissac
- Moissac to Lectoure: Stone Fruits and Gothic Churches
- Lectoure to Larressingle: Cats, Condom, and the Smallest Fortified Village in France
- Larressingle to Éauze: Hiding in Plain Sight
- Éauze to Aire-sur-l’Adour: Deep into the Denouement
- Aire-sur-l’Adour to Louvigny: The Corningest Corn that Ever Corned
- Louvigny to Navarrenx: The Longest and the Hottest
- Navarrenx to Saint-Palais: Back in Basque
- Saint-Palais to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Finishing the Via Podiensis