A few years back, a series of changes were made to the Camino Inglés, for better and worse. While some faded waymarks still survive, navigation of the older routes is increasingly reliant upon gps tracks and advanced notice of the alternatives. But which are worth taking? Here’s a quick overview:
Stage 1: Short-cuts over the Ría de Ferrol
There is now a waymarked route split 11.6km from Ferrol. Pilgrims can go directly across the river, or opt instead to turn left for a wider loop, the advantage of which is getting to walk through the old mill, the Muiño das Aceas. The short-cut will save you 1.2km, but I really enjoy the narrow pedestrian bridge after the mill.
Note: there are two other much more significant short-cuts possible over the river. The FE-14 auto bridge that the Camino passes under 6km from Ferrol can be crossed, delivering you directly into Fene. If you do this, you will still just barely exceed the minimum 100km necessary to qualify for the Compostela. It’s an option if you’re in a huge hurry, but it is otherwise not advisable. Further down the road, it is also possible to join the train bridge (there’s a pedestrian walkway) just after Mosteiro do Couto, 9.4km from Ferrol, and head directly to Neda. While this is a better walk than the highway bridge certainly, and a significant short-cut (shaving off 8km), you’re losing a lot of good walking on the Camino!
Stage 3: From Cos to Presedo
Fair disagreements can be had about some of these route changes, but this one makes me mad. I just don’t get it. The newer, “official” route now follows the paved DP-0105 all the way between these villages. There is often minimal shoulder space for walking. Traffic is light–it’s a country road–but when cars come you sometimes have limited notice. The highlight is Bar Carabel. Nice place.
However, the old route was such better walking! The majority of it is unpaved, following dirt tracks through the woods. Admittedly, it’s longer–700m more than the highway-bound approach–and there are no services along the way, but you have the most memorable bar on the whole Camino Inglés just ahead after Presedo! I strongly encourage all pilgrims to follow this alternative if you’re comfortable with gps. Here’s a track for just this alternative.
Stage 3: From Leiro to Bruma
If memory serves, once upon a time the “old” route through this section, turning left immediately after the church of Leiro, led pilgrims to the highest-elevation point on the Camino Inglés. Aside from that, this approach was known for Casa Julia in Vilacoba, the lone opportunity for a snack along the walk. Casa Julia closed this spring, though, so that incentive is now gone. This variant spans 13.2km, with more than 5km of that on dirt tracks and footpaths.
So what does the newer, “official” approach offer instead? Well, it’s considerably shorter, saving walkers a little more than 3km. Impressively, more than half of that is still unpaved, though it does include a less pleasant stretch of highway near the end (admittedly with plenty of space for pedestrians). The highlight is the Embalse de Beche, a pleasant park at a reservoir that makes for a wonderful break. In recent years, a bar has opened here as well as a nicer restaurant. It’s even possible to overnight here in “eco-cabins.”
All things considered, I recommend the new route over the old one here.
Stage 4: Approaching Sigüeiro
Why? Just… why? We’re focusing here on the latter part of the stage, immediately after the Camino Inglés crosses the E1/AP9 expressway, 17.6km from Bruma. The old route continued straight on a dirt track for 500m, then turned right and kept straight on all the way to the industrial outskirts of Sigüeiro. It’s not a particularly interesting walk or anything, but it’s unpaved and quiet.
Instead, the official route now turns right immediately after crossing the expressway and follows a dirt track alongside/above the expressway and all of its noise. It even manages to be 200m longer than the old route!
Unless you love listening to cars roaring past you, go with the old route here!
Stage 5: Leaving Sigüeiro
It used to be that, after crossing the Río Tambre out of town, the Camino would turn left onto what quickly became a dirt track. Now, it follows the highway for a bit before turning right. Neither approach is particularly remarkable! For that reason, let’s stick to the numbers: the old route covered 5.4km; the new route is 200m shorter. Only 1km of the new route is unpaved, though, while most of the old route was. In the end, it’s not a huge difference, but the old option is probably the slightly more enjoyable walk. Here’s a gps track of that section.
And while you’re here…
If you’d like to get in a bit more coastal walking while on the Camino Inglés, check out my suggested, unofficial, unmarked variant between Pontedeume and Miño. I don’t dislike the official walk in that section, but I really like this alternative!
All of these options are included in our guidebook to the Caminos Inglés and Mar, available from Cicerone.
