The day off was well timed, because today brought me the most strenuous walk of the trip. Admittedly, there wasn’t that much of an ascent involved, but I haven’t done a lot of climbing over the last couple months. I think my calves are smaller now than they typically are. And besides, when the day’s destination sits at 7694 feet, as Atlantic City does, it doesn’t require a ton of elevation gain to generate huffing and/or puffing.
This is also the first of a four-day stretch that is the last big, intimidating hurdle to clear. While some food is available in Atlantic City today and Farson tomorrow, it’s limited, so I set forth from Lander with a very full pack, carrying food that will get me through to Kemmerer on Monday. That extra weight probably didn’t help, either! Nonetheless, I love uphill, and my body felt great, so cardio be damned, I powered through the day.
More than anything else, though, I was just excited to be in Atlantic City. This is one of those spots that captured my imagination in the planning stage, and I’ve been eager to get here ever since. While the Gold Rush, capital G, capital R, kicked off in California in 1849, smaller rushes erupted throughout the country, as other mineral discoveries were made. Wyoming’s opportunity knocked in the 1860s, throughout the area surrounding Atlantic City and its neighboring gold towns, South Pass, Miner’s Delight, and Lewiston.
By definition, gold rushes don’t bring stability. The roller coaster was even more dramatic in Atlantic City’s case. After the first discoveries in 1867 and 1868, which actually led directly to the town’s founding in 1868, the easy gold was largely exhausted by 1875. The majority of the town’s residents bolted for greener pastures. In 1884, a hydraulic mining project was launched, reinvigorating the town for a few years. Two decades later, a wealthy arrival built a large timber frame mill. Fast forward three more decades and a large-scale dredging operation was initiated, operating 24/7 between April and October, resulting in a bipolar town population, with many families disappearing over the winter. The mining focus shifted from gold to iron ore in 1954, and this proved to be a major employment vehicle, though many families at this point opted to live in Lander and commute daily. As productive as it was–and could still be–US Steel opted to shut it down in 1983. And that was that. Individuals still maintain claims and do some small-scale mining, but nobody’s making a living at it. Atlantic City today has an official population of 32, buoyed primarily by servicing travelers on the Continental Divide Trail and the other occasional tourists who trickle in.
When I haven’t been out, wandering around, I’ve spent the afternoon reading Atlantic City Wyoming, Voices from a Powerful Place, a collection of short pieces detailing the town’s history as part of its 150th birthday celebration. It’s a remarkable snapshot of life in the town, sharing perspectives of dozens of current and former residents. As I got sucked in, I just started typing up interesting quotes that captured the spirit of the town, past and present. Here are ten:
On the harsh reality of life in a gold rush community: “A gold mine is a hole in the ground, owned by a liar.”
On the very particular teaching qualifications in Atlantic City’s early years (I’m qualified!): “Teachers had to be high school graduates, single, and approved by the county superintendent through an interview process. A teacher who married was not allowed to complete the teaching session.”
On the central role of trust in the town: “Most lived just above the poverty line [in the 1970s] but did not think of life in those terms. We knew we had it better than almost everyone else because of the unspoken trust we had for each other… This intrinsic sense of trust was the essential basis for a unique and vital barter system. It seemed you could trade for about anything if you were a resident. We were more like a family in that way. Money was optional.”
Finally, some respect for the work of midwives: “In winter 1896 Phoebe was the only woman in Lewiston. She was about to give birth. The men in town became concerned about Phoebe giving birth without another woman around. They threatened to hang her grandfather if he did not bring help to deliver the baby.”
Oh, so that’s what happened to Jeffrey City’s other bar! “Bob bought a building, the Green Mountain Inn bar and restaurant, in Jeffrey City. He paid $12,000 for the bar and another $10,000 to have it moved 70 miles to Atlantic City”
Even in my one day off in Lander, I stumbled across three different conversations between older folks bemoaning how young people don’t want to work anymore, though not so colorfully: “We crossed the Rubicon long ago, where more than 50 percent of the population derives its paycheck from some form of government, while less than 50 percent work in the private sector. I’ve lived through the transition of work and industry being of prime importance to an emphasis placed on entertainment and the pleasure of an individual, rather than industriousness. It’s an instant gratification culture. If it comes to trails for four wheelers, bikers, and hikers versus permitting a mine, the wreckreationists (sic) win every time. It’s the victory of masturbation.”
It’s a very handsome bull! “If you don’t want cattle in your yard, it’s your responsibility to fence them out. Bill is used to receiving calls from angry property owners who have cattle in their yard. One woman called Bill to let him know that a bull was staring at her through a large front window. Bill thinks the bull was merely looking at his own reflection.”
A night at the Atlantic City Mercantile Bar in the 1970s: “They ordered their usual drink, the “Hot Mama”–a gallon glass pickle jar with many shots of CLC (Lord Calvert Canadian Whisky), lots of ice, and filled up with pineapple juice and 7-Up. They passed it around between six or seven of them until it was gone. Time passed quickly, and they proceeded to get drunker and drunker. One guy pulled out his revolver and shot a hole in the stamped tin ceiling. Then they proceeded to give each other crap until one guy was motivated to go outside and return riding his horse through those swinging bar doors”
Roast Opossum Recipe: “Plunge opossum into hot water for 2 minutes. Scrape off hair without damaging the skin. Remove entrails, eyes, brain, and feet, but leave on head and tail. Wash well and if possible, freeze for 3 or 4 days. When ready to cook, wipe opossum off with a damp cloth, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in a roasting pan with 1 cup water and juice of 1 lemon… At certain times of year opossum may be greasy.”
On the persistence of Atlantic City “Jobs are important and desirable, but the economy is just one tool residents use to preserve the community. This is the lesson Wyoming’s oldest mining town can offer other Western areas that experience booms and busts. By stressing and preserving the important values of a community, it will survive.”
