Day 45 – Toffia to Rieti – 52km
I’m a competitive person. Probably more competitive than you. On the whole, I’m content with that. It has served me well enough professionally. Perhaps a little less so personally. I recalibrated over the years, and that made a difference. Early in my career, I wanted to be perceived as the best teacher at my school; […]
Days 43-44 – Roma to Toffia – 75km
There’s not a ton to say about the past two days of walking. Those who have walked the Via Francigena Nord into Roma, especially prior to the route change through a natural area after La Storta, will recall it as one of the worst stages of the entire pilgrimage, to the point that some opted […]
Days 41-42 – Poggio Bustone to Norcia – 65km
When the earth gives out beneath you, when the certainty you once took for granted–solidity, predictability, consistency–crumbles into ruin, what can you do? Where can you turn? More to the point, maybe: who will you be? Benedict’s birth place, Norcia, held out longer than his burial ground, Montecassino. The latter’s destruction came from above in […]
Days 38-40 – Vicovaro to Poggio Bustone – 84km
There’s a saying that circulates on pilgrim forums with some regularity: “The way is made by walking.” It comes, originally, from a poem by the Spanish writer Antonio Machado, but you’ll rarely see it in that full context. It’s the kind of expression that has immediate currency with many walkers, evoking a sage nod and […]
Days 36 & 37 – Collepardo to Vicovaro – 73km
It would be lazy and a bit out of place for a non-Christian to characterize ours as a “fallen world.” If it’s possible, though, to shift that from a spiritual term to an intellectual concept, speaking of a context in which traditional values and virtues have been diminished, distorted, or disregarded completely, then it feels […]
Days 34 & 35 – Roccasecca to Collepardo – 60km
Saint Benedict is, obviously, central to the story behind the Cammino di San Benedetto. And I’ll get to him soon enough. But these first few days spent walking the route have been an opportunity to get a feel for the character of this Cammino, its distinct flavor. Given the centrality of Benedict, and the paucity […]
Day 33 – Cassino to Roccasecca – 30km
If you didn’t know the history, didn’t know anything at all, you could be forgiven for thinking that Montecassino is today as it has been for more than a millennium, a single unbroken continuity extending back to Saint Benedict in 529. It took me two hours to arrive at this point, standing atop the staircase […]
Days 31-32 – Faicchio to Cassino – 114km
What I most appreciate about very long days of walking is that the distance simplifies matters, tears the whole edifice down to its studs. Don’t think too much. Just wake up and go. And keep going. Obviously, too many days of that is a problem, for all kinds of different reasons. But two days? That’s […]
Days 29-30 – Buonalbergo to Faicchio – 70km
Would the anti-walking case like to present its rebuttal? With pleasure… I slipped out of Buonalbergo under the cover of darkness. I had screwed up some part of the conversation the night before. In my initial conversation with my host, she had asked what time I left that morning. It was a long stage, so […]
Days 26-28 – San Giovanni Rotondo to Buonalbergo – 138km
The hardest part of long-distance walking isn’t the blisters, the foot pain, or the creaky knees. (Easy for me to say, as the lucky dude who has largely avoided all three.) It’s also not exposure to harsh elements, like torrential rain and wind, scorching heat, and soul-sucking humidity. It’s certainly not insect swarms, packs of […]