Day 5 – Chester to Annapolis, MD – 11 miles

15 seconds after I stuck out my thumb, a state trooper came whipping around the corner.

The plan for the day was simple: a few more miles on the Cross Island Trail, cross the Chesapeake Bay, and then follow a quiet road through the “hills” into Annapolis. The problem with the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, though, is that pedestrians aren’t allowed on it. First opened in 1952 and, according to Wikipedia, “the world’s longest continuous over-water steel structure,” the bridge is the only part of the ADT that I can’t cross on foot, aside from the Anderson Ferry between Kentucky and Ohio. And, while some bridges are technically not open to pedestrians but are totally fine for pedestrians (like one I crossed yesterday), the CBB is no joke. There are no shoulders of any kind. It’s three tightly-packed lanes flanked even more snugly by thin guardrails that inspire little confidence.

So, with walking out, there are just a few options: see if you can call in a favor from a local, hire a taxi/uber, or hitch. Conditions seemed ideal for hitching–it was a quiet, sunny, Saturday morning, and traffic was pretty light. Enough cars for the odds to be in my favor, but not so many that people would feel like they couldn’t slow down and pull over for me. I turned onto the onramp, stuck my hand out, and then turned back around to see what was coming.

Flashing lights.

Trooper Kevin rolled down the window and asked what I was up to. I explained that I was walking across the US, but that this was the lone place I couldn’t cover on foot. My hope was to just get a ride to the other side. He asked for my ID and radioed in. A moment later, he was clearing out the front seat and inviting me on board. Kevin explained that he’s one of nine troopers responsible for Maryland and, given that the two sergeants stay in the office full-time, he’s really one of seven. He mentioned that there had been a serious crash earlier in the day, featuring a dead pedestrian, so that was a cheery note.

In any case, we flew across the bridge at trooper speed–it was fun watching vehicles around us suddenly hit the brakes as Kevin passed by–and before I knew it I was back on solid ground. I grabbed coffee at the Wawa, an institution around here, and had the clerk, Tracy, make the second request for a selfie with me in two days.

The walk into Annapolis passed uneventfully. It was, once again, a beautiful morning, with woods shielding me from the modest breeze and the sun casting everything in vibrant color. St. Margaret’s Rd brought me to Baltimore-Annapolis Blvd, and suddenly I was climbing up to the Naval Academy Bridge over the Severn River. Ahead, the Naval Academy was laid out before me, resplendent in the sunshine, with a small group of unfortunate cadets working out in the riverside field, fully exposed to the wind. After descending into Annapolis proper, I veered left to the historic center. It’s a gorgeous preserved core, with shops and inns radiating out from the circular road that runs around the capitol building. Main Street is particularly handsome–a brick road sloping gently downhill to Annapolis Harbor, flanked by all manner of restaurants and shops. For some reason, it made me think of the Ramblas.

Accidentally, I ended up in Annapolis National Cemetery, one of a handful of cemeteries in the city center. I was immediately struck by the range of graves, with soldiers (and their wives) from the Civil War, World War I, and World War II. A plaque with Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address stands at the entrance. Many of the tombs are attributed to unknown soldiers.

I finally made my way to my accommodation for the night, another pilgrimage link–this time a veteran of The Way of Saint Francis (courtesy of Sandy’s book). Pilgrims are everywhere.

On the whole, a lovely, relaxing day. Just two days from DC now.