Closing the Loop to Figeac
Sometimes, I’ve learned, a 7am start time for breakfast—especially in larger accommodations—can actually translate into a 6:30am availability. So on this morning, in Gramat’s Grand Couvent, which holds many more folks in hotel rooms than its small pilgrims dorm, I sat outside the restaurant, trying to strike an expression that balanced meekness and cordiality. Harmless, […]
Morning in Rocamadour
My eyes were on the horizon as I slipped out of the gite early this morning. While it’s been rare on this walk to leave before 7am, this morning I was on the road just before 6am, due to a very particular goal. That timing, though, combined with my northward trajectory, afforded me the opportunity […]
On the GR46 to Montfaucon
The Gite Le Monde Allant Vers is the smallest place I’ve stayed thus far, with only six pilgrim beds. It’s vertical aspirations far outpace its horizontal limitations, so much of my time there was oriented around the blue spiral staircase. Descending it one last time after breakfast this morning, I was surprised to discover that […]
South to Cahors, Then Back North Again!
This was a wonderfully relaxed day—the shortest I’ve had on this trip, aside from my first stage, and the first time I’ve managed to arrive before the gite has opened. While I wish the clouds would have burned off a little sooner, so that I could better enjoy the views of Cahors, that’s my only […]
Through the Causse de Limogne
Originally, this walk was supposed to take me to the Couvent de Vaylats; alas, they were booked solid. OK, no problem, on to the Gite de Poudally then! Closed, for the time being. Eventually, my attention was drawn further down trail, to Gite Le Pech. A longer day than originally intended, but I confess it […]
Following the GR-65 from Figeac to Cahors
When I was first learning about the Via Podiensis, I quickly learned that the biggest decision I had to make centered on how I would approach the section between Figeac and Cahors. Most pilgrims, I was informed, just automatically continued on the GR-65, without really thinking much about the options. A few iconoclasts opted to […]
Bursting with Hospitality in Decazeville
On the Camino Francés, many pilgrims begin in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. As the towns roll by, though—Roncesvalles, Burgos, León, Sarria—even larger numbers of reinforcements arrive, turning that initial stream into a full-fledged torrent in Galicia. By contrast, on the Chemin there’s a reverse effect, a continual dwindling down of walkers. Many—maybe even a majority—conclude their journey in […]
And Then Back to Conques Again…
It rained all night. I slipped into the breakfast room at the Couvent de Malets—a massive and impressive complex overlooking Saint-Come—around 6:45 and heard from a couple of other pilgrims that they were going to delay their start until around 9am, when the forecast gave them some hope. My plans, though, were locked in, as […]
Going Full Circle to Saint-Come
So we’re at dinner last night in Le Soulie, having a great time. Our host, Michel, doesn’t speak much English, but he actually engineered the seating at the table to surround me with English speakers (all young Parisians), along with another fellow who speaks Spanish. I’ve never had that happen before, but it was awfully […]
The Highlight Reel: Saint-Come, Espalion, Estaing… and Le Soulie
I previously wrote that the walk leading into Nasbinals is my favorite on the Chemin, or at least the co-favorite. If, for some bizarre and/or tragic reason you could only walk one stage on the GR-65, though, I think you might have to pick the walk from Saint-Côme-d’Olt to Estaing. With two of the “most […]